PUPPIES

So you’re thinking of getting a puppy or recently got one, here’s what to do and how I can help with that.

Overview

Choose your Puppy.

Get them home and Crate Train them.

Book a consultation with me.

Book a Sitter until they are ready to be left alone.

Start Training/ Socialization

Book a 1-2-1 walker until they are ready for group walks.

Book follow up training sessions.

Book your dog onto Group walks.

 

Step 1

Choose a puppy that is suitable for you and your lifestyle.

For further info on this you can book a session with me in which I will also give you all the notes for a successful first week with your Puppy and bring a dog with me to show you some Puppy starter exercises.

Step 2

Crate Training

As soon as you get home start to Crate Train your Puppy.

It is important to build security in your dog and learning to be left alone is a skill which needs to be built up. I’d personally pick my new pup up in the morning so this was going well before bed time. *Whatever you do DON’T reinforce whining for attention by returning to them. Build them up to enjoy and feel comfortable in the crate and you won’t even have to ignore it.

Step 3

Book a foundation training session with me if you haven’t already.

Step 4

Leaving them.

Be prepared to be home with them for the first 3 days- 2 weeks whilst you build them up to being left alone for longer amounts of time. If you can’t do this, we can sometimes supply a sitter for £60 / day. *You can probably find someone cheaper online.

Step 5

House Training

  • They can hold their bladders for about 1hr per month of age whilst awake so if you want house training to go quickly you want someone to be letting them out at least that often.

  • What goes in on time goes out on time; Work this out so you can praise them as often as possible for going where you want them to.

  • Saying a cue like ‘Do your Business’ half a second before they go can put the behavior on cue.

  • A bit of movement helps the system get going.

  • Their system shuts down at night so, whilst asleep you have longer that they don’t need to pee.

  • Start small; one area for sleeping, one for peeing. Build up to the whole house being the den and outside being for peeing.

For persistent elimination problems, go back to crate training and book a consultation.

 

Socialisation (8-16 weeks)

It is critically important your puppy has plenty of positive interactions with humans, dogs and children prior to 16 weeks as well as many positive experiences with livestock, hoovers, skate boards bikes, the vet, being handled etc.

Following my puppy starter exercise sheets that I include in your first consultation is a great way to do this as well as finding other nice puppies, dogs & children for your dog to meet. The idea to keep in mind is new things bring good things. Do not force your pup into scary situations but praise them when they navigate something new with confidence. If they do have a fright calmly back away, ask for a behavior you have taught such as eye contact or a down stay and praise the confident behavior you have now got. Do not pick up your puppy and start cooing and coddling them. They will think you like the anxious behavior they are displaying.

Socialisation vs Vaccinations

This period is so important that the American Veterinary Society recommends socialisation after the first vaccine and so BEFORE a puppy is fully vaccinated.

If it was my own Puppy I would socialise them as much as possible after the first vaccine with dogs I know are vaccinated. Ideally I would do this at home or at puppy classes where I know Puppies are checked for vaccinations and I would avoid dog pens where I know there has been a high concentration of dogs who I don’t know if are vaccinated or not.

Boarding/ Sitting

I suggest you send your puppy to your chosen trusted friend or a 'That Dog Guy' helper for the odd single night in the first few weeks you have them and before considering 'boarding' them for a long period. You want them to get used to going away and coming back to you but not have them shunted around too many people early on. Being crate trained will help them acclimatise happily to a new environment.

*They are ready to board with us, once they can endure a full hours walk are house trained and can endure up to 4hrs alone. Until then a sitter at your home is probably best.

Foundation Training

This is best started between 8-16 weeks. It teaches your puppy important skills and life lessons, tires them out mentally and prevents future problems. E.g they aren’t running off with your slipper if they’ve been taught a retrieve. They won’t be chasing a cyclist if they can do a fluent down stay and or recall.

Please book in to start learning.

Exercise

Whilst their bones are still growing/ plates closing they may not be suitable for large group walks and when they are out socialising it is important they are supervised by an experienced handler who can identify and prevent ‘bullying’ from older dogs so they don’t have to learn to fight back. Keeping on the move and avoiding pens where they have no flight option is a good start.

In your first consultation I will go through with you how to look out for if your dog is being bullied.

“Trained proactive handlers can pay attention to the environment around them so they can diffuse situations before they arise.” Brenda Aloff, (APDT) 

Food

Please follow your vets advice on feeding. It’s very important your puppy gets their daily food quota but this can be via training and food puzzles which will tire them out mentally without having physical strain on the developing bodies.

  

If you require services or need any further help please fill out the enquiry form.

“Trained proactive handlers can pay attention to the environment around them so they can diffuse situations before they arise.” Brenda Aloff, (APDT)